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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.